In a bygone era, a haberdasher was the arbiter of opulence, style and comfort.
A good one could outfit you in a perfectly-fitted suit, matching shirt and necktie, and send you out into the world feeling good about yourself.
That was the same effect Brooks and Lauren Bemis wanted guests to have after leaving their new distillery tasting room in downtown Franklin.
“The whole name Haberdasher was all about dressing up. It was men’s coats and ties, haberdashers were all about looking good and dressing up,” said Brooks Bemis, owner and head distiller.
Haberdasher Artisan Distillery — the first distillery since the Civil War era — has opened its doors to the public. Stepping into the luxe yet functional space inside the Garment Factory, people can sample gin, bourbon and other spirits in a space that marries the luxurious with the industrial.
People can enjoy classic cocktails such as a Sazerac or an Irish coffee, or try one of the distillery’s own creations, such as the pumpkin-spiced Old Fashioned. Visitors can try a flight of spirits, and order from a small plate food menu.
“The No. 1 goal of the distillery is to always make an uncompromising lineup of spirits that we would want to drink as spirits enthusiasts,” Bemis said. “So we decided to focus on whiskey and gin, and to branch out within those two categories to create a portfolio centered on those two spirits.”
Walking into Haberdasher’s tasting room on the west side of the Garment Factory is an almost overwhelming experience.
Crystal chandeliers hang from the exposed industrial ceiling. Plush chairs and utilitarian tables dot the space, illuminated by ample natural light from the massive refurbished factory windows.
Sparkling bottles of bourbon, barrel gin, hop-factory whiskey and more are arranged among glassware, all set up tastefully around the bar and its white marble top. Glass partitions showcase the gleaming stills and other equipment where all of Haberdashers products are made.
“The words we used were ‘industrial’ and ‘elegant.’ Since this was a factory, we wanted to keep the exposed beams and ductwork. We wanted it to have an industrial feel to it,” Bemis said. “Because at the end of the day, it’s still a manufacturing center, even through what we’re manufacturing is different.”
So much is happening inside the tasting room that it’s easy to miss the massive photograph affixed to the wall. In it, a besuited Harry S. Truman stands with other gentlemen inside the haberdashery he owned from 1919 to 1922, well before he would become a U.S. President.
“That picture and the word ‘haberdasher’ we found when were researching names that were clothing related,” Bemis said. “So that picture was part of our inspiration.”
The story of Haberdasher Artisan Distillery started with Bemis in the mid-2010s. He was looking for a new hobby when he wasn’t working his job in distribution.
Shortly after they were married, both Bemis and his wife enjoyed going to area breweries and distilleries, sampling different selections and enjoying the locally made products.
“We loved the different stories — the way how every brewery and distillery approached things differently. There was a little bit of science and a little bit of art,” Bemis said. “Every time I walked into one, I thought how cool it would be to own one.”
Hoping to fill his time with something productive, he started researching making spirits. Initially, he wanted to apply for a hobby permit to distill very small batches; however, the only permits available were for commercial spaces.
Bemis was able to secure a space inside the Garment Factory that was undeveloped.
“As soon as we conceptualized having a distillery at the Garment Factory, we knew we’d have to do a tasting room, and it just grew and grew and grew,” he said.
Permit applications were submitted in 2017, and when they were approved in 2018, Haberdasher Artisan Distillery began making spirits in August of that year. The business joined a growing industry of craft distilling. According to the American Craft Spirits Association, there were 2,687 active craft distilleries in the U.S. as of August 2021. That’s an increase of 17.3% from August 2021, when there were 2,290.
Bemis studied the basics of distilling spirits, taking the foundational knowledge and adding his own tweaks. He relied on the American Distillers Institute, the world’s oldest and largest trade association dedicated to craft distilling. When he encountered a snag or question, he reached out to other local brewers and distillers, who were generous with their help.
Over time, he developed a steadfast system and a line of products: gin, bourbon, barrel gin aged in charred oak barrels, and a light whiskey made in the style of traditional Irish whiskeys. He also developed more adventurous spirits, such as Hop Factory, a two-year aged whiskey distilled from SuperFly IPA from Oaken Barrel Brewing in Greenwood. He created Spirit of Kwonjon, a spirit also distilled from SuperFly IPA beer and infused with botanicals such as juniper, hops and angelico.
“With each step of the process, there are infinite variables. As a distiller, part of the mark on your spirit is how you choose to manipulate those variables,” he said. “How creative do you want to get? Do you want to stick to recipes? To make a consistently good product, a unique product that makes no compromises, that takes time.”
For years, it served as a hobby business for the Bemises. They did some sales, mostly to friends and family. But the response was positive, and plans started to create a tasting room inside the Garment Factory.
Bemis quit his job and focused his attention on Haberdasher.
“Finally, we came to the crossroads that, with two little ones, a 9-to-5 and this, I was going to have to pick something,” he said.
One emphasis for the tasting room is offering private tastings. Haberdasher is only open on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, offering a wide variety of time if people want to do private events to learn more about spirits.
“We’ve found people love learning more about how spirits are made, where they come from, what makes them taste the way they do,” Bemis said.
The tasting room had its grand opening on Oct. 21, bringing people from throughout Johnson County and as far away as Terre Haute and Fort Wayne down to the distillery.
“For the longest time, this felt like it was a dream,” Bemis said. “Probably my favorite thing is, sharing our spirits with people we’ve never met before. To have people willing to make the trip here, it’s very humbling.”
AT A GLANCE
Haberdasher Artisan Distillery
What: A newly opened craft distillery specializing in small-batch whiskey and gin
Where: 81 E. Wayne St., Franklin, on the west side of the Garment Factory Events building
Hours: 2-8 p.m. Tuesday and Thursday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday; private tastings can be arranged as well
Information: haberdasherdistillery.com, 317-526-3679 or Haberdasher Artistan Distillery on Facebook.
