Gen. Andrew Jackson built the Hermitage as a refuge from the bustle of the city of Nashville, a few hours to the west by horseback. Nearly two centuries later, it remains a refuge, even though the city has grown out to reach it.
While easily accessible from interstate highways, the vestiges of the Jackson plantation are still able to transport visitors to the early 1800s, particularly the period immediately before, during and after Jackson’s presidency.
As soon as visitors pull off nearby busy Old Hickory Boulevard, they get a sense of being transported back in time to a more relaxed period. The lane to the general’s home — he preferred the title General over Mr. President, even in the White House — takes visitors past quiet hayfields. You might see wild turkeys strolling by, as we did the day of our visit.
The first stop is the visitor center, where you buy tickets. A restaurant and gift shop are nearby. Before entering the historic area, visitors can watch a short film on Jackson’s life and see several historical exhibits. On hot days, though, you might prefer to tour the house and grounds for a while, and then come inside for the film and static displays.
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Each visitor receives an audio device that plays recordings at various points around the grounds. There are three themes — Gen. Jackson, Rachel Jackson and a youth track. Signs along the paths instruct visitors which tracks to punch in and listen to. All three themes are accessible from each device.
The audio segments are like mini aural documentaries. They explain what you are seeing and offer context about the historic period. Some segments offer additional commentary to listen to. Many segments, especially among the youth-theme ones, include music and sound effects, truly making history come alive.
The centerpiece of the grounds is the Hermitage mansion. Guides take visitors through the building, explaining its history and pointing out interesting items in the various rooms. Because the Hermitage was never sold to an outsider and was preserved by a local women’s group after Jackson’s adopted son died, the house and its contents are preserved from the time the general lived there.
The original structure of The Hermitage mansion was a brick, Federal-style house constructed between 1819 and 1821. The house contained eight rooms, four on each floor and two wide center halls. The first floor contained two parlors, a dining room and Andrew and Rachel Jackson’s bedroom. On the second floor were four bedrooms.
During Jackson’s presidency, the mansion underwent a major renovation directed by architect David Morrison. In 1831, Morrison dramatically redesigned the mansion by adjoining flanking one-story wings, a two-story front portico with 10 Doric columns, a small rear portico and copper gutters.
The new wings bordered the east and west sides of the home. The east wing housed a library and a farm office. A large dining room and pantry comprised the west wing. A newer kitchen and a smokehouse were added behind the mansion.
Just outside the mansion are Rachel Jackson’s garden and several tombs, including that of the former president. The flower gardens were designed in the English style and originally also contained herb and vegetable gardens. Today, they are primarily flower gardens representative of what would have been there when Rachel was alive.
Only a handful of buildings from the plantation days remain. Those are described in the audio tour. There also are archaeological dig sites that show how historians uncover and interpret the past.
The slave experience is not overlooked at the Hermitage, nor is it treated in a revisionist fashion. The audio tracks offer a factual description of the role of slavery on the plantation and the life of its slaves.
To fully experience the museum, house and grounds, plan on spending at least half a day. Special programs, such as one about the rules of dueling, can add time to a visit but are worth it.
Whether Nashville, home of the Grand Ole Opry, is your destination or you are just passing through the city on your way to Florida, the Hermitage offers pleasant, educational opportunity that is worth the visit.
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Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage
Address: 4580 Rachel’s Lane, Nashville, TN 37076
Hours: 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. March 15 to Oct. 15, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Oct. 16 to March 14
Admission: Adults, $20 adults; seniors (62 and older), $17; children 13-18, $15; children 6-12,
$10; veterans, $10; active-duty military and children(5 and younger, free; Family Pass (2 adults and 2 children younger than 18), $54. Enhanced admission options are available.
Website: thehermitage.com
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